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Saturday, July 10, 2010

I could get used to fresh croissants in the morning...

Ahh, it's been a while since I've posted! I have a lot to update you all on. I suppose I should discuss the reason why i'm here, which is to take a course in french culture and conversation. We take classes at the Sup de Co (short for: École Supérieure de Commerce), which is a business school that specializes in tourism and related industries, mostly. they have some classes in french, since a lot of their students are non-french, and our professor frédérique is a pro. she's really funny and engaging and gets to know us really well and is very good at correcting all of the little faults we make. class goes from 8:30 am to 12:30 pm, with a short break around 10:30.



There's no set format for the class, except for that every day one person presents an "exposé" on a certain topic that is relevant to France or La Rochelle in particular. I did my exposé last thursday on the proposed changes to the retirement system in france, which is basically akin to our social security system, except that it covers around 85% of the average workers' retirement, compared to social security, which makes up 36% of US retirements. Sarkozy and company are trying to change the law to delay retirement from 60 to 62 in order to make the system solvent in the long term. one of the problems with it, however, is that it seems to advantage upper level employees (cadres) more than lower level government workers or privately employed workers. these people would have to work two extra years without increasing their retirement, while bosses could earn over 4000 extra euros per year for their retirement by delaying their retirement two years. it's also not likely to help unemployment rates, especially since now young people will have even a harder time than they already have finding work (the unemployment rate is around 10%, like it is in the states). any way, i think i successfully bored the class with that presentation (it was also the morning after Bastille Day, so I'm just gonna assume that's why everyone was falling asleep, haha).

Outside of class, going to the beach is a pretty popular activity, both during the day and at night. Here's a picture from the last time we went to the beach as a group at night:



This particular beach is right near the center of the city and it was actually a good place to listen to music from the francofolies concerts when they took place last week. It was also really cool to be in Europe for the World Cup, or as I got used to calling it, la Coupe du Monde. A few of us went downtown to watch the final game... at first I was going to root for the Netherlands, since I thought they were the underdog, and normally i like to root for the underdog. But then, during the first few minutes of the game, Pierre texted me and told me that he was rooting for Spain because the Netherlands wasn't exactly "fair play." Immediately after that, a dutch player judo-kicked a spanish player in the chest, which solidified my support for Spain. As Pierre put it, "The Netherlands isn't playing soccer, but kung-fu!" Emerald, Joe and I rooted for Spain, while Liz and Aayla, seen pouting in the picture below, cheered unsuccessfully for the Netherlands.



Last weekend we also made a trip to two chateaux of the Loire Valley, which was pretty cool. The trip was a little bit long for my liking, but it was really cool to see two castles from which the French monarchy used to rule the country. The first one that we saw was Amboise, which was 80% destroyed a few hundred years ago, so it was lacking a little bit of splendor if you ask me. It was definitely cool. Here's me in front of Amboise:



I think I preferred Chenonceaux, the second castle. One thing that Amboise had that Chenonceaux didn't? Leonardo da Vinci, who is buried there. Chenonceaux is more of a "fairy-tale castle," as you can see here:



Later last week, we also made a trip to Cognac, which is where--i bet you can't guess-- COGNAC is made. We took a tour of the Hennessy factory, which was really interesting. They showed us the process from the cultivation of the grapes all the way to the bottling. Cognac can only be made in the cognac region, and there are specific geographical regions north and south of the center of Cognac where certain soil nourishes the grapes differently, ultimately leading to different varieties of cognac. I think there are a few members of my family who would've really enjoyed that tour! Then we had a small tasting of the different flavors and they showed us (but did not let us taste) the bottles of cognac which cost over $10,000. Some of them are made from the "eaux de vie" that date from the early 1800s!! They amazingly still have these batches of raw cognac in bottles in the cellars we saw. I've also learned a lot about Pineau, which is a variety of wine (but a little stronger) that is a specialty of the region, and it is made with the same grapes as Cognac. People around here are amazingly proud of their products, it's almost overwhelming. And they also like to talk about how Americans don't really have anything comparable... Which i usually try to argue, but ultimately fail.



On Friday, I went to Phoenix's concert at the Francofolie music festival (picture above), which is in La Rochelle and I can actually hear quite clearly when I open my windows. The Francofolie festival is, I think, the biggest music festival in France and only brings in french speaking artists, but not necessarily people who peform in french....... case in point, the two groups i saw, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Phoenix, while French themselves, sang almost exclusively in English. I tried to imagine a music festival in the states in which an American started singing in French.... especially if the point of the festival was to promote anglophone singers. Oooh, the french. But anyway, back to Phoenix. They pretty much blew my mind and now I own a lot of their music. For a group of four parisians, they come up with some pretty good english lyrics...



On saturday, we went as a group to the Aquarium in La Rochelle. It is (apparently) one of the best aquariums in the world and had a ton of tropical fish (including nemo-fish and dorie-fish) as well as a hermaphrodite fish that Monica loves and some pretty sick sharks that would swim on top of you, basically.



in terms of language comprehension and learning, I've definitely come a long way since arriving in La Rochelle. Every night at dinner with Sylvie (and often her boyfriend Alain as well as various children who come in and out of La Rochelle from time to time) we discuss different aspects of french culture and society that we find interesting. yesterday we talked about overfishing and the environmental consequences of pesticide use, as well as the high costs of being "bio" aka organic. Today we talked about the military in France, and Alain told Victor and I about a few of the differences between our respective armies. For example, when going to war, the French ask their soldiers, "Are you prepared to go to war?" According to Alain, in his regiment of 88 people, only two replied "yes".... and by "yes," i mean "oui." The others said things like, Well I have kids, well I have this and that... I can now see a little more clearly why our army bears the brunt of so many of the conflicts around the world, especially since we don't let our soldiers opt out of their service when it's inconvenient to them. Dinner time discussions aren't always so serious though... Any way, it's time for me to crash so i can get up in the AM and do a short run.

@+!
tim

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Ahhhh.... La Rochelle

Finally, I'm in La Rochelle! I think the last thing I wrote about in the blog was arriving at the Mt. St. Michel on on Friday evening, so I'll try to pick up from there and continue to where I am now. I got up early and ran again, planning to do my long run but i brought my camera that I ended up stopping so many times and taking so many pictures that I ran out of time to finish 85-90 before breakfast, haha. But I'm glad I did it! I got some good photos, like this one:



We then went up into the Abbey of Mt. St. Michel, which I've done before, but it was great to do again. It's simply so old, so it's really hard to believe that i'm standing on a place that was built around a thousand years ago and yet is still in existence. Here is a picture of the prayer courtyard neart the very top of the abbey:



While waiting around, Aayla and I took some pretty "hard" pictures. We're so B.A. ....



This photo may or may not be on the cover of our first joint rap CD. After the Mt. St. Michel, we took the bus about five hours to La Rochelle where Victor and I met Sylvie! We were pretty anxious about it all, but Sylvie is so nice and makes great food! We've shared meals with her, some of her friends, and even a few of her children, including Thomas and Charlotte, who both live in the area. Charlotte is 19 and lives in Bordeaux where she studies Science Po (like me) although she may take the extra room here for the summer because she has a pretty good job offer.

Sylvie's house is in a great location-- really close to the Vieux Port and the Old City shopping district. It's only an 8 minute walk to the harbor, and there are tons of shops, patisseries, boulangeries and PEOPLE on the way. I didn't know this until yesterday, but La Rochelle is the third most visited city in France after Paris and the Mt. Saint Michel. There are a ton of people here already, and there are sure to be more when the Francofolies music festival commences. The atmosphere downtown is great-- tons of restaurants and cafés which overlook the old port, and a ton of glaceries, aka ice cream shops, that are amazing. We've definitely hit those up more than once already. Here's a look at one of the towers in the Vieux Port at sunset:



Classes started yesterday and they are going well. Our prof, Frédérique is great, and really helpful with learning vocabulary and specifically slang vocabulary that the French youth use. So far, so good as far as class is concerned.

All right, I'm tired and going to bed... Bonne nuit!

PS-- the temperatures here are between 60 at night and 75 in the day with a nice ocean breeze. I'm so glad I'm not on the east coast of the US right now! 102 just doesn't suit me...

Friday, July 2, 2010

normandy is fine and fair...

If anyone understands the title reference, I'd be really impressed... it would probably have to be someone who went to middle school with me, but not necessarily...

so anyway, I'm in Normandy at the moment! My precise location is "Le Restaurant de l'Esperance" in the hotel de l'esperance in Lisieux. It's a cute town that has a huge basilica and a lot of roaming countryside. When we got here yesterday I went on a GREAT run along rolling country roads, past old farms, some lazy looking heifers and a lot of small french cars. I had about a mile run up a massive hill that caught me a little off guard, but it was totally worth it since the 360 view at the top was incredible.



Yesterday we hit up Mantes-la-jolie, a pretty town on the Seine. The cathedral is gothic, and really cool. We then traveled to Giverny, where Monet lived and had his gardens. You may recall some of his water lily paintings and his painting with the green japanese bridge... We saw all of those things. It's such a gorgeous place, it's easy to see how he was so inspired to paint. I picked up a nice Monet book for six euros in the book store.



Then we had a picnic along the Seine that was really picturesque... We also were in a great mood, having realized that prices in rural Normandy around roughly 1/5 of the prices in Paris. Check out our picnic spot.. (not bad, right?)



On a funny side note, my roommate, Mike Bosserman, woke me up last night while shouting in his sleep... now I finally know what Is ound like

Okay, I took a little break while writing this... now I've changed locations. I'm in a bungalow outside the Mt. Saint Michel. We just arrived here today... it's gorgeous. I have been here before when I came to France three years ago with my parents, but it still took my breath away when we came saw it on the horizon.



while on the way, our bus driver missed the exit, and we ended up going down a really country road. we happened upon a herd of cows that felt no pressure to move while meandering down the street...



when we arrived, our bungalows are sweet. I went for another amazing run, up country roads and alongside a windmill from which I could see the Mt. St. Michel in the distance. Again, breathtaking. THen I ran through the scenic village of Beauvoir, and I I saw some rundown houses I wanna buy and flip. They'd make some really awesome B&Bs for Mt. St. Michel tourists....



Right now I'm exhausted and am still trying to recover from a cold that has been following me all week. I took some medicine and I think it's about... to knock....... me....... out............zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz...... Haha, okay that was really cheesy but I am indeed really tired. Tomorrow, finally, we get to La Rochelle! Look for the next update from there!